Moccasin manufacture



Oct. 15. 1940. I P E, MEDWED 2,218,006

MOCCAS IN MANUFACTURE Filed April 25, 1959 mame-f" Patented Oct. 15,1940 UNITED STATES MOCCASIN MANUFACTURE Pinchcs E. Medwed, Bangor, MaineApplication April 25,

1 Claim.

This invention relates to moccasin manufacture and more particularly toa moccasin constructed or assembled to receive an outsole in stitched,cemented, or otherwise suitably secured relationship to the sole area ofthe moccasin assembly.

The novelty of the moccasin hereof resides more especially in itsfore-section, which consists of upper leather, as usual, and whichencompasses the forepart of the foot, including the forepart of the footsole, with its esh side presented next to the foot.` y The fore-sectionof the moccasin hereof comprises a three-piece assembly, namely, asubstantially U-shaped-piece of a width to afford upstanding or exposedmoccasin Walls and lower marginal portions turned inwardly as soleportions, a sole-piece abutting the lower marginal edges of theU-shaped-piece and stitched thereto, excepting at the bend or toeportion of the U-shaped-piece, whereat the sole-piece assumes the formof a sole-toe-portion having a shape and size substantiallycorresponding to the entire sole-toe-area of the moccasin, and atongue-piece stitched to the upper marginal portions of theU-shaped-piece, the lower marginal portions of the U-shaped-piece at thebend or toe portion thereof being overlasted and secured, as by cement,to the toe portion of the sole-piece. An important advantage of thefore-section assembly hereof is that it enables the tongue-piece firstto be stitched by an ordinary machine to the U-shaped-piece, whereuponthe sole-piece may be readily stitched in abutting relationship to thelower marginal edges of the U-shaped-piece, as by stitches Zig-saggingbetween the abutting edge portions of such two pieces, excepting at thebend of the U-shaped-piece. The fore-section may their be stitched atits rear edges to the usual rear-section, upper-leather, moccasinassembly to constitute a moccasin assembly that can be placed upon alast, on which the lower marginal portions of the U-shaped-piece at thebend or toe portion thereof is capable of being readily overlasted andcemented to the toe portion of the sole-piece, which is preferablyskived at its external marginal area to improve the smoothness andtenacity of cementation or bond with the overlasted marginal portion ofthe U-shaped piece. Finally, an outsole can readily be stitched,cemented, or otherwise secured to the sole area of the completedmoccasin assembly.

With the foregoing and other features and objects in View, the presentinvention will now be described in further detail with particularreference to the accompanying drawing, wherein,

1939, Serial No. 269,876

Figs. 1, 2, and 3 show in perspective the solepiece, the U-shaped-piece,and the tongue-piece, respectively, for the fore-section assembly.

Fig. 4 similarly depicts the U-shaped-piece and tongue-piece after theyhavel been stitched together.

Fig. 5 similarly depicts the fore-section assembly comprising thesole-piece and tongue-piece stitched to the U-shaped-piece, the assemblybeing in inverted position.

Fig. 6 is a perspective View of a conventional rear-section, upperleather, moccasin assembly ready for stitching to the fore-sectionassembly preparatory to lasting.

Fig. '7 is a composite sectional and side-elevational View of themoccasin assembly on a last.

Fig. 8 is a plan View of the forepart of the lasted moccasin assemblypreparatory to cementing the lower marginal portion of theU-shaped-piece in overlasted relationship to the toe portion of thesole-piece.

Fig. 9l is a similar view but showing the lower marginal portion of theU-shaped-piece already overlasted and cemented yto the toe portion ofthe sole-piece.

Fig. lOi represents a fragmentary section through the toe portion of themoccasin assembly on the line Ill-Ill of Fig. 9.

Fig. 11 is a similar section but showing an outsole stitched to themoccasin assembly.

A U-shaped-piece Ill to enter into the foresection assembly is shown inFig. 2 in inverted position and as having lower marginal portionsnotched, as at Il, to define its lower marginal bend or toe portion I2from its lower side edges or marginal portions I3; To the upper marginalportions I4 of the U-shaped piece I0 may be easily stitched by anordinary shoe-upper stitching machine the tongue-piece I5 o f Fig. 3 toform the two-piece structure illustrated in Fig. 4, which has a line ofstitches I6 passing through the substantially complementary or matingedge portions of its two piecesI I 0 and I5. To the inturned lowermarginal portions I3 of the piece I 0 may then be stitched, asillustrated in Fig. 5, the side marginal portions I 'I of a sole-pieceI8 (shown in Fig. 1) so that the corresponding margins or edges of thetwo pieces ID and I8 lie in substantially abutting relationship. Asindicated in Fig. 5, this is done by a line of stitches that pursues azig-zagging course between each pair of abutting edge portions I3 andII.

The sole-piece I8 is left unstitched to the U- shaped-piece I0 at thebend or toe-portion of such latter piece, whereat the sole-piece assumesthe form of an enlarged sole-toe-portion I8a of a shape and sizesubstantially corresponding to the entire sole-toe-area of the moccasinto be created. Such sole-toe-portion I8a is preferably skived at itsexternal marginal zone I8b over which is to be lasted and to which is tobe cemented the lower marginal portion I2 of the U- shaped-piece at itsbend or toe-portion. It might be noted that the three-fore-sectionpieces of Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are assembled into the structure of Fig. 5with their flesh side on the inside of such structure.

To the fore-section assembly or structure of Fig.`

5 may then be stitched a usual rear-section, upper-leather moccasinassembly, which, as appears in Fig. 6, may comprise rear-section piecesstitched together so that their skin side is on the inside. The backseam of the assembly may be reinforced by a strap-piece 2I and the uppermargins thereof may be reinforced by straps 22 continuing substantiallybeyond the front edges 23 of the pieces 20 as extensions 22a. Suitableeyelets 24, through which the moccasin-tightening laces may be strung,as customarily, are shown as having been driven through and fixed to theupper margin portions of the pieces 2U and their reinforcing straps 22.The stitchingtogether of the two moccasin sections prior to theirlasting may be accomplished, as by two lines of stitches 25, which areshown in Figs. 7 and 8 as uniting the front edge portions 23 of therear-section, moccasin assembly of Fig. 6 in overlapping relationship tothe rear edge portions 26 of the fore-section, moccasin assembly shownin Fig. 5. Again, such line of stitches 2l as serves to secure eachstrap 22 to each rear-section-assembly pieces 20 may be continued, as at21a, so as to pass through the strap extensions 22a and the uppermarginal portions of the U-shaped- 4m piece I0 of the fore-section, asshown in Fig. '7.

i posit or coating 28 of appropriate thickness over the skived marginalzone I8b of the sole-piece I8 and the so-called wiper elements of thebedlasting machine may then be put into operation to pull andV wipe thelower marginal portion I2 of the U-shaped-piece I0 tightly and smoothlyover and into contact with the cement coating 28, which grips or cementsthe iiesh side of such overlasted portion I2 tenaciously to the skivedmarginal zone I 8b of the sole-piece I8, as shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

When the cement has set or dried adequately, an outsole may be suitablysecured to the sole area of the moccasin assembly. As shown in Fig. 11,an outsole 29 may be secured to the moccasin assembly by two lines ofstitches 30, which may pass through the marginal portion of the sole 29and the marginal portions of the moccasin sole all the way around themoccasin. It is possible thus to stitch the outsole to the moccasinassembly after the latter has been removed from the last by a McKaystitching machine or the like. Of course, prior to such stitching, theoutsole may be temporarily secured by two or more clincher tacks to thesole area of the moccasin assembly while the assembly is still on thelast; and the temporary tacks may be pulled or removed after the outsolehas been stitched in place. .If desired, a sock-liner (not shown) may beplaced in the finished moccasin, for instance, one that extends from theheel area of the moccasin sole past the two lines of stitches shown inFig. 8 as unitiing the fore-section and rearsection of the moccasin.

Changes or modifications are possible in the moccasin hereof withoutdeparting from the spirit or scope of invention as defined by theappended claim. It is to be understood that while the various parts forthe moccasin proper preferably consist of suitable upper leather, suchas calfskin or heifer-skin, yet it is possible to use articial orsubstitute leather materials for one or more such parts and that theexpression upper leather` used above is meant to comprehend artincial orleather substitute materials as well as genuine leather.

I claim:

A method of moccasin-making, which comprises assembling a fore-sectionby first stitching a tongue-piece to the upper marginal portions of asubstantially U-shaped-piece of a width to afford upstanding moccasinwalls and lower marginal portions turned inwardly as sole portions, andthen stitching a sole-piece in abutting relationship to the lowermarginal edges of said substantially U-shaped-piece, excepting at thetoe portion of said sole-piece; stitching to the resulting fore-sectionassembly a rear-section assembly; and lasting the resulting moccasinassembly by operations inclusive of the steps of pulling the lowermarginal portions of said U- shaped pieces at the bend thereof over, andsecuring them to, the toe portion of said solepiece.

PINCHOS E. MEDWED.

